Saturday 12 July 2008

Driving West - Simon's final thoughts

So after waking up in Gdansk, running out of petrol on the outskirts of town and going on a 3 hour orienteering exercise around the shipyards ( and losing Will in the process) I headed west out of town on the 27. I waited for Will on the 27 and we eventually found each other again.

The Polish highways were by and large single lanes with intesting scenery and colourful towns and they took us quickly to the German border. We decided to try and get to the western side of berlin to try and miss the worst of the commuter traffic going in the following morning. I was sure that we would be able to find something like a formula 1 to stay in so we could get an early start.

Needless to say, we couldn't find anything really, let alone a formula 1. At around 1 in the morning we found a hotel near Brandenburg. Will decided to go for it. I decided to keep going for home. I headed back to the autobahn and west towards Hanover, Will headed for bed. Unbeknownst to us both when we parted, the hotel was closed.

I kept going for about another hour before pulling into a rest stop, draping the outer from my tent over the bike and getting in to my sleeping bag underneath it. I had 2 hours of fitful sleep - very itchy due to the mossie bites - and I was back on the road at 5am.

I didn't look back, stopping only for fuel and food, I rode another 500 miles through germany, holland, belgium and france in torrential rain. I had a little celebration on crossing in to france just east of dunkirk and I was on the pride of dover by 4pm. I grabbed another 30 mins sleep on the ferry and then settled in for the 200 mile ride from dover to clevedon. I stopped once for a celebratory kfc at membury services and juxtaposed it with the russian roadside experience just a few days before.

So all in all an amazing trip. Some fantastic highs and aweful lows - the hallmark of a real adventure I think! I'll echo Mikes sentiments - I learned a lot about people I thought I knew (myself included).

The bikes were great, my buckled wheels seems to have repaired itself and the only other thing that went wrong was an auxilliary light bulb blew on the last day. It even withstood being crashed in Lithuania without even breaking a sweat. I don't think I'll be able to part with it easily.

A few places really made an impression on me: Norway for its natural beauty, Russia for its apparent contradictions and craziness and Parnu, Estonia for its laid back grandeur. In fact the baltics states in general for the feeling of a more innocent and generally joyful way of life. Poland surprised me - I expected a grey and uninteresting country but saw quite the opposite.

I have a number of issues that remain unresolved. The one that I will share now is "so where next?". For the others, buy the book.

Its been great riding with you? Cheers Simon



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The Scores on the Doors

The route according to Simon's GPS

Total Distance: 4,886 Miles (Excluding Ferry to Norway)
Overall Average Speed: 28.9mph
Moving Average Speed: 46.7mph
Total Trip Time: Too big for the display, but a calculation says 169
hours!
Moving Trip Time: Too big for the display, but a calculation says
105 hours!
Maximum Speed: A rather modest 89mph (due to the panniers)
Country country count: 13

Friday 11 July 2008

TeekondHOME

After an uneventful ride from Folkestone I met the kids from school as planned which was nice, lucky for Gus there WAS a calendar!

Bike was awesome, considering its gone 4K miles over the last service interval. Leaky rear shock and shagged back brake disc seem to be the only slight niggles.

Punctures - none
Breakdowns - none
Drops - none
Crashes - none
Near misses - several
Miles - lots

Apparently I smell like someone from the great unwashed, although I did shower this morning my bike clothes didn't!

Back to the real world now!

Mike

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Eurotunnel

Well now safely on the Eurotunnel, bit the bullet and paid the extra as opposed to taking the ferry to Dover. Got another drenching between Antwerp and Gent, had to empty my 'waterproof socks' in Bruge and swop them for plastic bags and dry socks. Barring any major disasters I should get back as planned to meet the kids from school this afternoon which will be a surprise for them as they aren't expecting me until at least Friday evening. I made the decision to gun it home on Tuesday when in eastern Poland, I could have headed south to Slovakia but speaking to Gus on the phone he told me he was going to make a special calendar that would tell him how many days it was until he saw me (obviously he will be in the shit if there is no calendar and I rode the thick end of 1800 miles to see it!).

The last 19 days have been a bit of a whirlwind, it seems longer than that ago that we battled the gale force winds on the way to Newcastle to catch the ferry to Norway.

Notable highlights, Pulpit Rock in Norway, the second and third day riding through Norway, fantastic scenery and technically challenging roads. Arriving at the Arctic Circle, gravel tracks in Finland, the whole experience crossing the border into Russia, the shocking roads (or lack of), the shocking driving and the chaos that was driving into St Petersburg!

Disappointing not to go through Kaliningrad 'just for the hell of it' and sorry I didn't get to Slovakia or Austria, its unlikely I will get the opportunity to undertake a trip like this again in the foreseeable future due to family and work commitments but hey not everyone can say they have ridden their motorbike to Russia!

Hats off to Will, for someone who has only been riding for less than 12 months to take on some of the riding conditions that we experienced and still stay on two wheels takes some doing, especially on a big lump of German metal that has all the agility of an elephant!

I think we have all learnt a lot about each other - perhaps too much! :-) we met some great people along the way and at the time of writing haven't had any major problems with the bikes considering the hammering that they have taken! No trouble to speak of anywhere with the exception of the minor squirmish in Finland. We didn't get ripped off (knowingly) and we didn't have to bribe anyone!

TeekondBELGIUM is now TeekondFRANCE and in about 35 mins should be TeekondENGLAND!

Mike
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Thursday 10 July 2008

TeekondBELGIUM

TeekondHOLLAND lasted for a trundle around Amsterdam and a meal then hit the road to Belgium.
Got dumped on tonight and got the first real soaking of the trip, got pulled by the Police in Antwerp wasn't sure what I had done, was more intent on navigating the wet cobblestones, whilst trying to look for somewhere to stay. Pulled in and a plain clothes cop got out of his car, explained he was a biker and that I looked like I needed something. Explained was looking for somewhere to stay - 'expensive or sheet?' He asked, 'quick and dry' was my reply, 'follow us' with that they led me through antwerp and out the otherside for 5 or 6k's and deposited me at a Campanile, 'if there are no rooms tell them the police sent you', luckily there was room, with a bit of luck I will be on the Eurotunnel before noon with the aim of picking the kids up from school tomorrow afternoon.
Mike
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TeekondHOLLAND

TeekondPOLAND is now TeekondHOLLAND and is in Dam Square, Amsterdam.

Obervations from Germany
They drive very fast and there is lots of wind turbines.
Mike
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Wednesday 9 July 2008

German roadside accomodation is simple yet effective

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Observations of Poland and all things Polish

Having left the town of Elk in eastern Poland I rode cross country and now just west of Berlin in another odd guesthouse, luckily got the last room just as the heavens opened.

The roads all the way across were surprisingly good.
The drivers were surprisingly courteous and very bike aware even though I didn't see many bikes, they also tip you the wink before you get to the speed traps.
They have topless car washes!
They have fruit sellers on the side of the road which in itself is not unusual, they also have prostitutes lined up in between the fruit sellers which I thought was.
The cemetaries are very colourful, amazing flowers (not the kind of thing I would normally notice).
My Polish is as good as most peoples english I met today.
There are lots of lakes.
I disturbed a hooker and her client when I stopped for an 'adventure p***' by the side of a road.
I didn't do too much for Anglo-Polish relations when I stopped for another 'adventure p***' in a deserted lane, it actually turned out to be someones driveway and he waited patiently in his car while I finished up as my bike was in the way, the shake of the head said it all.
Mike
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TeekondPOLAND!

Initial blog from the newly formed TeekondPOLAND group. After yesterdays parting of the ways I am now directly north of Warsaw. When we got out of Russia it started to become apparent that things were not rosy in the Baltica team. In hindsight we probably should have split up earlier and then I wouldn't have said some of the things I did but where would be the story in that? The local Latvians wouldn't have been treated to the sight of two English guys dressed up as storm troopers have a frank exchange of views whilst being watched over by a bewildered Irishman dressed in a yellow high visibilty vest and a cowboy hat! Simon wouldn't have been able to ride gravel tracks through the arse end of Lithuania, catching a ferry across to the Curonian Spit, riding to the Russian border and pitching a tent at god knows what time of the night. Will and I wouldn't have found ourself in a weird town, staying in a weird antique kind of hotel that sold gas masks, egyptian paintings, catapults and Virginia State Police badges! Followed by dinner at midnight in the Bumbling Bombier sat next to a table of extremely drunk Irish soldiers who did their country proud!
After leaving the Curonian Spit I headed for the Polish border in the pouring rain, stopped on the road to help some Lithuanian guy fix a puncture, then with some trepidation and a bit of a buzz I arrived at the border, lots of trucks and iffy looking truck drivers but the roads were nowhere near as bad as expected, heading south to Augustow and turned west and ended up in the town of Elk, sorted a room with secure parking and breakfast for 50 dollars (no Polish dosh and they didn't take cards but the american money seemed to do the trick). Nice meal by a lake and a good kip, booked breakfast for 7.30 and was disappointed to find the dining room in darkness and no one around, was about to go and express my disappointment when I twigged that I hadn't put my clock back.
On the road at 8am, great ride through the countryside, Poland so far has been good! Very colourful country!
Exchanged texts with the others this morning, everything seems to be cool!
Mike
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Tuesday 8 July 2008

Legendarny Smak!

Poland mint! After a wet start in Kaunas, like mike an hour early cos we forgot about the time change, we had a great breakfast - best and cheapest yet, served by a smily waitress.

A bit of a shclep to the polish border, but then good roads through suprisingly pretty countryside. We hit the 16 which is 200 miles of good road. To augment mikes urinatiion story, I'm pretty sure that I fell asleep on the same driveway for an hour. I was surprised by the dewey grass at 2 in the afternoon!

Will saw 4 accidents and was compelled to flick the bird at an incalcuable number of motorists - the teekondTwo have encountered less courteous road users than the teekondONE

We headed for the north east of gdansk because the lonely planet listed a good place to stay. We went through about 20 km of what felt a bit like african coast - shacks and sand - reminded me of kenya a bit.

We were a little perturbed by the memorial by the chain link ferry (that was such a rubbish chain link ferry that it needed a tug) that had the number 60 on it - we're assuming that that is the number of people that died last time is sank.

Anyhow we eventually found somewhere resembling pontins to stay in. The shipyards tomorrow and then to berlin!

Night night.

Simon and will

Ps will is talking complete nonsence because the only food we could find were some pretzel sticks called legenary smak!

Pps stalks are quiite nice

Ppps we found 7.1 percent beer!

Pppps we're being thrown out of the bar.
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A wet start.

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Monday 7 July 2008

An interruption to our normal programming

Those of you out there avidly following the schenanigans of teekondBALTICA will have noticed a reduction in the frequency of blogging in the past few days. As Will announced earlier today, this can be best attributed to a structural failure in team dynamics. The united front that prevailed through scandinavia and russia has faultered due to differences of objectives. The Baltic states have always been devicive in geo politics and so too in the teeko politics!

Will and I turned North again to The Hill of crosses in Lithuania - an amazing hill covered in thousands of crosses and religious symbols. I'm far from a devout christan but it was an impressive spectacle nonetheless. Apparently the whole area was once flooded with sewage by the communists and was dismantled frequently during Russian times, it keeps coming back though.

We parted with Mike at a petrol station Kleipeda with a handshake and a nod. He's off to the South of Poland

We are now in Kaunas, Lithuania. We will cross in to Poland tomorrow after extricating the bikes from the very tight hotel lobby that we squeezed them in to this evening. Next stop the shipyards of Gdansk. From there we will complete to circumnavigation of the baltic sea via germany.

For the record, the last couple days went: Parnu biker bar, nude beaches, gravel roads at 50mph, beer at camp, losing each other on the way to Riga, Simon crashes his bike, blazing row at the roadside in Latvia. Mike and Will's weird hotel, Simon's computer game ride up the curonian spit in the dark and rain.

Cheers

S

Ps crazy Lithuanian kids doing donuts in the car park outside

Pps According to the recptionist, Kaunas is dangerous at night!
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The teekondTWO at the Hill of Crosses, Lithuania

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The wheels fall off both the wagons!

It is with great regret and a certain amount of relief that I have to announce the disintergration of team teekond Baltica. The people have spoken and decided that they want different things from the trip at this point. Mike is off to Auschwitz to cheer himself up! Simon is off to Gdansk for some solidarity! Will is, as the old song goes, stuck in the middle with himself. More later.

Cheers Will

Ps. We're on a world heritage sandbank in lithuania and its pissing with rain.
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Sunday 6 July 2008

Pig' Ears!

The Estonian delicacy of pig ears (including hair!) Were not a roaring success!
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Latvian Forest Track

I fell off for the first time about an hour ago. The road turned to sand and a lost the front and buried the bike in some Latvian guys lawn. He was mowing it at the time. He was a little suprised to see 400 kg of german engineering embed itself in his garden.

I lifted it straight back up though, even with a full tank of petrol. He had to help me pull it out of the rut it was stuck in. Everything is now mint.

Simon
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Saturday 5 July 2008

No mans land!

They like to queue!
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Services!

We are definately not on the M4 at Membury services!
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Not mint!

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Correction!

Its far from beef jerky, try salty fish jerky! I will pass!
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Russian road food!

Croissants (shrunk) filled with chocolate, beef jerky and some weird sausage like things! Oh and nescafe!
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Friday 4 July 2008

Goodbye Lenin (out of the wilderness into the wild)

A long day today and I'm too tired to write this really, but in the spirit of our journalistic responsibilities, we'll give it a go.

Leonid met us at 10 and we started the drive out of st petes. Tram lines and crazy traffic and we were on the M10 towards ivangorod and the estonian border. The roads were great for a while, better than we get at home but quickly degenerated as we left st petes in to a melee of transversal cracks. I got bored driving slow and decided the best way to get over the potholes was to stand up and nail it.

The border crossing took a good 4 hours. Strangely, getting out of Russia was a doddle but getting in to Estonia took ages. One redemptions was the friendly border guards in estonia.

We then had a pretty boring schep to parnu on the coast. We didn't get here until nearly midnight. One of the symptoms of my approach to the russian potholes is that I have buckled my rear wheel. We had it off and tightened some spokes. Got to use the toolkit at least. I think it may have done some good cos its a bit better. I hope it holds out.

We were all pretty tired when we got here and due to the employment of an emergent planning strategy we had nowhere to stay. Luckily the first person I asked knew of a biker bar with a campsite. Its all a bit surreal, its like a small village with little cabins with Finnish choppers parked outside.

Mike managed this time to have a friendly conversation with a Finnish guy and got in o a converstion about football - riveting! Anyway don't know what we're doing tomorrow. Night night.

Simon, Will and Mike

Ps. Estonia is flat and has straight roads. According to Will and Mike there was a massive castle that was interesting. I completely failed to see it though. I think I might be travelling around the world looking at my gps screen.

Pps. Mike thinks that driving through estonia is duller than the M6, we'll report tomorrow on whether this opinion persists.

Ppps. Simon loves his bike cos its broken and it still works!
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Carlos - the adventurer's adventurer!

Luckily he is riding the road to Estonia today,taking the route we are proposing to take tomorrow. We have had differing reports on the state of it once you get out of St Petersburg ranging from 'the road is good', 'the road is ok', 'the road is great', 'there is no road'! It is the last one that has made Will a little twitchy - think Bambi on Ice on a motorcycle and you wouldn't be far away. Carlos is going to put some pictures on his blog and let us know how the road conditions are, we will then decide what we are going to do, we do have the option of going to Helsinki and then catching a ferry to Tallin and onto Parnu in Estonia which is where we propose to stop.

Insurance is all sorted, we stumbled across a company called Elite Holdings who have absolutely nothing to do with insurance but had english signs in the window and the receptionist spoke great english. We were helped out by Natasha who when we explained what we needed spent 20 minutes on the phone sorting everything out, she wrote all the details in russian to hand in at the other end and gave us directions to walk to a brokers. We did, they did and now we have! Mint!

St Petersburg is an incredible city, we have had a good rest but I will be happy to get on the road tomorrow. We met up with the guy who rode us into town last night and with a bit of luck, if he gets a pass from his wife he will guide us out of town in the morning. Another stroke of luck!

Mike
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Carlos - the adventurer's adventurer!

Luckily he is riding the road to Estonia today,taking the route we are proposing to take tomorrow. We have had differing reports on the state of it once you get out of St Petersburg ranging from 'the road is good', 'the road is ok', 'the road is great', 'there is no road'! It is the last one that has made Will a little twitchy - think Bambi on Ice on a motorcycle and you wouldn't be far away. Carlos is going to put some pictures on his blog and let us know how the road conditions are, we will then decide what we are going to do, we do have the option of going to Helsinki and then catching a ferry to Tallin and onto Parnu in Estonia which is where we propose to stop.

Insurance is all sorted, we stumbled across a company called Elite Holdings who have absolutely nothing to do with insurance but had english signs in the window and the receptionist spoke great english. We were helped out by Natasha who when we explained what we needed spent 20 minutes on the phone sorting everything out, she wrote all the details in russian to hand in at the other end and gave us directions to walk to a brokers. We did, they did and now we have! Mint!

St Petersburg is an incredible city, we have had a good rest but I will be happy to get on the road tomorrow. We met up with the guy who rode us into town last night and with a bit of luck, if he gets a pass from his wife he will guide us out of town in the morning. Another stroke of luck!

Mike
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Thursday 3 July 2008

Simons new best friends!

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Simons new best friend!

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Punk Drunk

Hello peeps, a slow day today on account of the balticians all suffering from a vodka and beer hangover after a lenghy session outside our hostel talking bikes and then moving on to the alternative bubble bar then moat bar. We met a russian couple who were really cool, we necked a few vodkas and talked about house music, a subject that I am not well versed in. They seemed impressed that we had decided to go to a music bar rather than embark on the usual tourist trail of lapdancing clubs and brothels.

Will and I finished the night moshing to rage against the machine at 4am figuring that we would only get the opportunity once. Mike was unconvinced about the merits of jumping around so he went for sitting at the back of the room, no doubt mezmerised by the stylish shapes that Will and I were cutting on the dancefloor.

The Russian punk girls are worth a mention, seemingly gettting paraletic and falling asleep on the bar with their legs in the air and their skirts over their heads is de rigour!

We were rudely awakened by the lovely Marsha at 11am banging on our bedroom door with clear and concise instructions to get out. We all sprang(!) in to action to move all our stuff to a dorm room upstairs to sleep off the hangover.

Spent a couple hours in the park writing my memoirs, a tome that will no doubt become a best seller if it ever gets written up.

My hand and leg that had swollen to the size of a small russian township have started to look a little better, clearly the bugs were discouraged by the attempted alcohol poisoning.

Carlos left this morning for the estonian border and we heard from him a little later in the afternoon. Apparently there is a road - mint. But it's quite potholed - not mint (but minter than if there were no road at all). I think we all feel a little happier about this, not least Will who was really rather worried about it. Thanks Carlos.

Another result is that Leonid is going to meet us in the morning to lead us out of the city. Thanks Mrs and Baby Leonid for giving daddy the day pass. We are much indebted to you both. Leonid has not only been a lifesaver but a very friendly and interesting bloke to boot.

There was just a fight outside the hostel window, but because the balticians are in bed early they missed it. We were however informed by Shaun the American that it was 'mint' - mint!

We have a very lucky Polish girl, Juliette sharing our room tonight. She seems unperterbed by the, as Will described it, 'fruity' aroma of our biking gear.

Anyhow, bon soiree les tout.

Simon (for teekondBALTICA enterprises)

Ps the collective baltic bowel is not at all well, probably a result of the Giardia and heavy metals in the city water supply!
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Wednesday 2 July 2008

Nice roads!

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The church of the saviours and those in need of salvation!

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The Finnish Mossies come out fighting.

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Cont....

It's morning, very needed sleep.



Our hostel is mint, it's right on Nevsky Prospekt - the main drag in st petersburg. Main drag is the right term to we sat by the side of it last night watching the full spectrum of society race their respective forms of transport down the strip. From woman on horseback to kids on the back wheel of their 50cc scooters, to pimps and pushers in hotrod corvettes and ferraris. This place is like the wild west.



I briefly mentioned the insurance in the last post. None of our insurance is valid here at all. In russia it is sensible to buy 3rd party insurance in case you take someone else out on the road - a very distinct possibility. The border people said we could buy it at a petrol station and when we rocked up there 50m from border control, there was indeed a buxom russian insurance sales girl in the lobby. She had no english and my now fluent russian was still a bit rusty yesterday!!! We managed to get to - yes they did insurance, and it was 500 roubles, about 15quid, but they only did it for cars - bugger. We tried plans B and C to no avail, I phoned Rosa in Real Russia's London office and she spoke to buxom russian, but it just confirmed what we already knew - that we were scuppered. But many thanks to Rosa for trying. Then Mike phoned the british embassy, they said that they had had a similar query a couple of days ago, but were ultimetely useless. So we made a pact to be careful and we hit the road.



It also means that our bikes aren't covered for theft. Our hostel has a locked compound. Which is cool but when I asked Alexander whether they had any problems he said 'I don't, but you might'. So we might be coming home on Aeroflot yet!

We're hitting the city today, we have to see the hermitage, some palace and the Church of the Spilled Blood. Although to be fair we walked past that twice last night from a distance so it feels like we have done that to death.

Uri gave us the name of a biker bar we we might try and find later on tonight.

Cheers



Simon

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Tuesday 1 July 2008

From Russia with gLoves (and a helment)

This morning found us with apprehension. After being reintroduced in to polite society in Joensuu, Finland with an expensive italian meal last night, we awoke with good intentions of getting an early start. An early start to Russia. We had heard mixed reports of the road across the border and the amount of hoop jumping that we would have to endure. It ranged from 'no problem, good roads' to 'many passport problems, no road'.

Mike wanted to stop for breakfast before we left town but I wanted to get going, we fuelled and headed South for Imatra and the Russian border. I was in front and I thought I better stop after 50km. I was soon informed that had we not pulled in I would have had my head kicked in - these boys and their calorie requirements.

It was another 150km on good, if boring, Finnish roads to the border. One quick conversation is important here - we decided not to stop and get 3rd party insurance in Finland, being sure that we could get it at the border.

Customs and passport control were straightforward and luckily there wasn't much in the way of a queue. After a customs declation and a cursory glance at out luggage we were through. The border guard said 'good luck in Russia' and we were in.

Then it all went wrong - imagine a 60 year old road that hasn't been repaired in as long with 30 tonne logging trucks hammering it all day. We went from perfectly paved black in Finland to foot deep potholes in the space off 200 yards. After 50km of this we hit the main highway to St Petes. 'Mint' we thought but it soon became clear that the Russian motorway etiquette is somewhat different to our own. In true 'if you can't beat them join them fashion' we got stuck in. First refuelling stop on the motorway wasn't too succesful as they didn't take plastic, cash only! So it was 5 litres each as we only had 500 roubles between us (20 quid) and hoped it would be enough to get us to St Petes.

We stopped to gather our wits and get wired on caffeine as the whole day had been pretty tiring. Stroke of luck when our new best friend Uri pulled into the petrol station (maths and computer science lecturer from boston but a st petes native befriended us) followed shortly by our new, new best friend Leonard showed up on his 400 Bandit and kindly offered to lead us into town, result as we would never have found our hotel without him. Following him in was probably the craziest 60 minutes on a bike ever!

More tomorrow - tired!

Finnish final frontier!

Another day of interesting roads (if you are on an LT - mint if you are on a GS). We have spoken to a lot of people today garnering opinion about the best border crossing to use and they all contradicted each other but the common theme was that the minor roads are shocking if you are on an LT but mint of you are on a GS. We are going have a punt a Imatra.

We ate reindeer sat by the side of a road and then drank coffee in the pouring rain at some kind of council recycling centre which seemed like the equivalent of ebay for non-internet users. Simon bought council issue waterproofs that made him look like a cross between Trigger from only fools and horses a Finnish lollipop man. We then ended up on an unpaved road in a mozzie infested birch forest about 5km from the russian border with only a bunch of trees separating us, we didn't see another car for a good few hours but chuckled at the fact that there were numerous bus stops but no people or buses in evidence, all a little odd.

We got striped up for 80 euros for basically sausage and chips and a pint of beer and then got lost in another mozzie infested forest walking back to the campsite. Finnish people ride bicycles into lakes and go swimming fully clothed.

There is still no sign of it getting dark!

Later

Will

Ps. The more south we get the more normal things seem to appear but Mike is still generally weirded out!
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Sunday 29 June 2008

Snowmobiles, suomi saunas and santa

After watching the local rednecks (think Deliverance with fishing rods and waders) smoking fish at 4am we eventually hit the road late morning after watching crazy finnish fellas race snowmobiles across a river, apparently the snowmobiles float if you drive them at over 70mph. We didn't partake in what appears to be the national passtime of swilling beer at 10am much to the disappointment of the this time friendly local guys.

We made a detour north to Santas house in Lapland to find busloads of american tourists. We obviously took the obligatory 'standing on the line of the arctic circle' pictures. Met an Italian guy and his wife who were travelling south from Nordkapp where the weather was -3 degrees, unfortunately he had been stranded for three days as the final drive on his 1200GS adventure had failed, its not surprising when you saw the amount of luggage he was carrying, not sure it will stand up to a warranty claim. We have been lucky with the weather, it has been raining for two weeks solid at 66.6 degrees north up until yesterday.

This afternoon we turned south to head for the Russian frontier, we are going to attempt to cross about 200km north east of Imatra into Russia. We may get refused entry there and have to cross elsewhere but we have been informed its much quieter, apparently the line to get across at the main border crossing from finland can be up to 20km long.

The afternoon was spent in what has become standard practice of dodging reindeer and anticipating finnish drivers actions as none of their cars seem to have indicators. We have been struggling to read the signposts on some of the minor roads off the highway as they tend to have been shot to shit by locals with high velocity hunting rifles. Road conditions have been a mixed bag of good tarmac and dirt tracks covered in gravel with on the GS is fine but Wills bike has been skittish. Frost heave is evident on lots of roads which means there are huge cracks along the centre of them.

We are currently around 300 miles from the Russian border being eaten by cat sized mosquitoes. No camping tonight but a log cabin in the middle of a forest with just a calming buzzzzzzzzz of bugs.

Its now offically not a motorcycle touring holiday but an adventure.

Cheers
Mike

PS. We couldn't find any reindeer to cook but plan to get some tomorrow.
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Saturday 28 June 2008

Strawberries

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Top Finnish Guy

Sammi, the giver of good advice, beer and Ibruprofen!
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A warm welcome in Northern Finland!

Well where do I start? Mike met sammi from finland last night, a top guy who advised on the best routes to take through finland and also gave contact details if we got into trouble! Thanks sammi!

Today has been an experience, we ploughed on through sweden this morning which was like a compendium on adventure motorcycling. First the road ran out and turned to rubble - scary! None of us crashed though. A very friendly swedish woman made us cheese and ham sandwiches and coffee in the middle of a forest in the middle of nowhere which calmed our nerves a little. Then it was elk on the road, then reindeer dodging, which at 80mph is a little nerve racking. Then it was all three together.

We had lunch on the pavement the town in Sweden where they send all the ugly people. The only shining light was anna the strawberry seller who is paid 20 dollars an hours to stand at a stall. We think she has a sideline selling drugs though.

We made it to the arctic circle but after nearly 2000 miles of successful rendez vous, mike ended up at a different arctic circle to will and myself - with us in sweden and him in finland.

We stumbled upon what appeared to be a fabulous campsite in northern finland but after an hour it became apparent that all was not well! Full of locals that are gathered to race their snow mobiles over the river(!) tomorrow (we should point out at this juncture that the river is NOT frozen which makes things even more interested).. A very drunk fin with a kyrgistany drunken wife told us that we weren't welcome and gesticulated with his middle finger us and told us in his best english to 'F*ck off' one by one. He also accused mike of stealing a boat and questioned whether his heritage was wholly caucasion.

Needless to say we didn't. 1 because we drank too many beers to ride our bikes and 2 because I want to see them sink their snowmobiles in the morning. We are sleeping with one eye open tonight with the bikes right outside the door. Welcome to the east boys!!!

We hope to meet more fins like sammi and less of the axe weilding homicidal maniacs we got tangled up with tonight!

Cheers

Simon

Ps. We have all gone to bed with the opening bars Duelling Banjo's going through our minds.

Pps. Mozzies the size of small children.

Ppps. We are all going a little nuts because its been broad daylight for the last six days, can make you a little crazy!
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We made it!

We are now at the Arctic Circle, unfortunately I am in Finland and Simon and Will are in Sweden! Little breakdown in communication. I am in the right place obviously!
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Friday 27 June 2008

No Santa

But lots of trees, lakes and mozzies!
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Thursday 26 June 2008

Norway Round - 400 miles today and into sweden.

Due to popular demand we are going to give our posts a little more literary finesse, so here goes:

A very long day today, 14 hours in the saddle, but through some spectacular scenery - the Jothmein national park.

Norway is expensive - 9 quid for two cups of coffee and 2 pounds for a bread roll!

Dissappointed that the border crossing was unmanned, not even a sign. Met a little lost Chinese man with a suitcase in the middle of nowhere - couldn't give him a lift though!

Also dissapointed that we haven seen a moose crossing the road, even though there are lots of signs advertising them!

We had a survival situation this eveing when we couldn't find anywhere to stay. We're getting by now with a couple glasses of jamesons on the sofa in our two bedrommed house watching lord of the rings on tv. Still had to eat emergency food though. Reminder to everyone that if you go to a ski resort, do it in the winter!

Oh and Dean, thanks for the whiskey, we cashed your food vouchers in on the ferry, also thanks for the hotel room in washington

Bikes are going well touch wood. Lots of mossies now. Its cold.

Shortest route home is 2698km, we have ridden over 1000 miles so far. Its midnight now and broad daylight, picture to prove it!

Pushing north tomorrow for the artic circle the following day!

Cheers Simon, Mike and Will

Wednesday 25 June 2008

Day 4 - Priekestolen to Gol - 416km - Snowblind Tunnel Vision

15 pound breakfast bap, mosquito central, ferry boats and fjords, twisty tunnels, waterfalls, snowfields, diesel spills, simon driving on the wrong side of the road again. Frozen lakes great bends. Jamesons and coke in the (almost) midnight sun.

50k west of Geilo

Snowtastic!

Tuesday 24 June 2008

Afternoon Ramble!

Taken from Pulpit Rock, a plateau above Lysefjordn 640m straight drop to the fiord below, no barriers! 8km walk up hill to get here and unfortunately 8km walk to get back down!
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Day 2 - 15 miles - washington to Ferry to North Sea - Dancing Days (throwing shapes on the way to Norway)

Angel of the North, Searching for relief on Westgate Road, Bacon and egg on the street, harsh words changing a light bulb, to the ferry, met an old norwegian guy on a bmw r60 - one careful owner for 40 years! Strapping bikes down on the ferry. Cider on the aft deck, fill you boots buffet, the worst band at the disco and people with no shame on the dancefloor. Cooked myself in the sauna trying to keep up with the Norwegians - mike diagnosed 3rd degree burns. Mike suggest will buys rollerskates cos he rides with both feet down. Mike's pep talk - "don't fall off and don't be a c#*t", we'll try but not promising
Cheers Simon

Monday 23 June 2008

Roadside Repairs

Roadside repairs by Laurel and Hardy in the wilds of Newcastle-upon-Tyne!
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Sunday 22 June 2008

Day 1 - Driving North - 330 Miles Clevedon to Washington via North York Moors

Left home, wet and windy, mike loves his new tyres, Simon hit an exhaust in the road, Will overtook something, had a cuppa at gavs, amazing skies up north, went for a ramble in the woods (in search of the pub).

Saturday 21 June 2008

Have you got any Hose?

I went to Clevedon Auto Spares this morning cos I knew the owner
'Ronnie' is a very good bloke and a biker to boot. I was primarily
after a set of spare bulbs for the GS. Whilst I was there I thought I
would get some piping so we could siphon fuel between the bikes if
necessary. 'Have you got any Hose?' I said. As I said it we both
relaised what was going on and any fans of the two Ronnies would have
too. Turns out he even has the same coat!!!

We also do Fourkandles

Then he pointed to the wall above the door! I couldn't stop laughing for hours! I couldn't think of any use for them though!

Thursday 19 June 2008

Packed

But now need to make some space!
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Sunday 15 June 2008

One week to go...

Well quite a lot has happened in the last month or so in the run up
to the trip:

1. Will's bike was blown over in a windy field in Snowdonia which
smashed his offside pannier to smithereens. Luckily he was able to
find some second hand ones from a bloke in London. A result, but at
mucho expense.

2. Censored

3. I realised that my Russian visa had completely the wrong dates on
it, 2 working days before I had to go to Paris with work. Luckily
'Real Russua' the agency in London were straight on top of it and
managed to turn in around so I could pick my passport up from them 2
hours before I had to get the Eurostar.

4. I had my bike serviced by the Mike at Cardiff Motorrad - the bloke
that built Ewan and Charley's bikes for the Long way Round - nice. I
spent 5 hours with him and he made sure I understood how to fix some
common problems that might occur on the road. It was a good.
Unfortunately though, the bike has to go back in 'cos Mike found
that the drive shaft oil seal was leaking - due to me overfilling the
bevel box it with Hypoid gear oil - doh! A mistake that took two
seconds to do, was 5mm more than it should have been, but will cost
£110 to fix. Oh well better than the transmission blowing up in Russia!

5. Dean has bailed!

Anyway I expect that the next blog will be when we have hit the road
- 2pm next Sunday - after Mike son Gus's football tournament.

Cheers

Simon

One week to go!

In exactly one weeks time we will be hitting the road, travelling from Bristol to Newcastle to catch the ferry to Stavanger in Norway.
Four became three this week as unfortunately Dean had to pull out of the trip due to work commitments, obviously we will miss his natural wit and charm but more importantly his ability to fix anything with a penknife and a piece of chewing gum.
From my point of view I am pretty much all set to go, my bike goes in tomorrow for a health check and a new set of Continental Road Attacks. I finish work on Wednesday which will give me a couple of days to gather together all the things I have accumulated for the trip, discard half of them because I will never use them, pack the other half and find there is not enough space and have to discard half of the half that was left, which means I will be left with what I started with!
I have had plenty of time on my bike in the last month, working in Yorkshire has given me the opportunity to ride up there regularly and I had a foray into Germany last week aswell, I have had several 500-600 mile days aswell so I think I am pretty well conditioned for some mileage disposal.
All the paperwork is sorted, we eventually all got our Russian Visas with the right dates on, Will has managed to find us accommodation in St Petersburg and Kaliningrad which means we will have beds to sleep in for at least three nights other than that we will be adopting an emergent strategy or winging it!
Mike
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Some Photos from Egypt

Nothing to do with teekondBALTICA but some cool pics from Egypt....

Wednesday 21 May 2008

The Peak Practise








I didn't really sleep so well on Friday night in anticipation of setting off on our practice trip to the Derbyshire Peak district in the morning. I went to bed after meticulously packing my panniers and drybag with all the hardware, camping equipment and clothes that we'll be taking on teekondBALTICA. I was wide awake at 5:30am on Saturday morning and after a quick breakfast with Vicky and loading up my bike, I was on the road. It was the first time that I had ridden my GS with anything like the actual weight of luggage that we'll be taking on the trip. I went for a quick lap of Clevedon to see how she felt and was pleasantly surprised because the handling didn't seem to be too badly affected at all. I stopped to get petrol before heading up to Mike's house in Bristol. I filled the tank up, dialed up the suspension pre-load a couple of clicks and then climbed aboard. Now the bike felt different - with a full 30Kg of fuel in the tank it was a different story, I had some problems getting the bike off the side stand much to the amusement of the assembled motorists at the petrol station. After some heave-hoing, I was on the road to Bristol with an enormous grin - I was on the road!

I met Mike at his house and we set off over the Cotswolds for our mid day rendezvous with Will at BMW Motorrad, Oxford. The rain held off all the way to Oxford and we rolled in to the carpark to meet a beeming Will astride his K1100 in the midst of all the brand new BMW models outside the showroom. The last few miles in to Oxford were hit and miss for Mike as he had neglected to fill his tanks and he was running on fumes by the time we got there. After a few minutes of fiddling with straps on Will's bike, the three of us were heading North in Convoy.

It was the first time that the three of us had ridden in convoy together and it took a good hour or so to get used to each other's particular style. We hit the motorway in an attempt to get some miles done at which point the heavens opened to ensure that our respective wet weather philosophies would be fully tested. I had gone for 'go light and dry fast', having just bought some new Furigan single skin gloves and having removed all the thermal linings from my jacket - within 15 minutes I was more than a little chilly, but not too cold. Mike had recently purchased an all-in-one rain suit which, as I predicted, did a fantastic job of keeping the inside of his top-box dry when he didn't bother to stop and put it on.

We made good progress and were soon in Ashbourne in Derbyshire, where we stopped at the very rock and roll local Sainsburys to get some food. After a highly nutritious lunch of meatball sandwiches, we were ready to hit the road again. We were ultimately heading for the Packhorse Campsite just North of Matlock, but Mike suggested that we do a lap of the National Park first to get some saddle time. Will stayed with the bikes while Mike and I went shopping and due to force of habit I guess, I put my disk lock on. My disk lock has a neon cord that you can attach to your handlebars to remind you to take it off before pulling away and thus avoiding a rather embarrassing incident when your bike travels a full wheel revolution before coming to a complete stop! I unusually didn't attach this and will picked it up for the floor and attached it for me. Suffice to say, as I pulled off, I got about a metre and there was an almighty thump as my bike came to a dead stop. I managed not to drop it on top of Will's bike, but there were a number of other consequences, firstly it caused my brother to erupt in an uncontrollable fit of laughter and snorting. Secondly, it caused Will to call me a 'fucking idiot'. Thirdly, it made feel like a complete twat! I have only ever done that once before and it was on a bike that cost significantly less to fix. My immediate worry was that I had really knackered something - there are lots of expensive hydraulic brake calipers and complicated wheel spokes down there. Sure enough the lock completely jammed in the spokes and no amount of brute force on the behalf of Will or myself was going to move it. Mike managed to subdue the giggling fit for long enough to suggest wheeling the bike backwards which did actually work! I spent the next 20 miles being convinced that something was going to break as I was sure that I had damaged one of the spokes.

We hit some fantastic roads in the National Park, albeit greasy with rain and damp, and made it all the way up to a lakeside rest stop by Woodshead Resevoir, just North of Snake Pass. We made our first roadside brew using Mike's Pocket Rocket Stove and my new camping kettle. It turns out that Mike had managed to pack some of his Wife's lemon tea and after mistakingly making himself and Will lemon tea with milk, he mistakingly made another one!! A hail of blasphemes was followed by general disbelief that Tetley could possibly make lemon tea bags.

We made it to the campsite at around 7:30pm after having done around 300 miles. The Packhorse campsite was on a saddle (!) of the hill just north of Matlock, a beautiful setting surrounded by lush green countryside criss-crossed with rustic dry stone walls. We rode up to the farmhouse / reception, parked our bikes and walked over and knocked on the front door. Nothing. A ring of the bell. Still nothing. I opened the door a little and shouted to be greeted with a cheerful Derbyshire 'hello' and a small but robust hound charging down the hallway towards me. The cheerful lady happily relieved us of our £26 and was in the middle of a describing the route to the local shop to the assembled Balticians, none of whom were listening, when Will commented on the how friendly the cheerful lady's robust little hound was. We all looked down to find Fido merrily humping Will's Hein Gericke Road Boots. There were more fits of gigling and snorting!

It's fair to say that Will had been a bit out of his comfort zone for most of the day, riding a bit quicker than he wanted to due to Mike's rather aggressive riding style. things were about to change. As we started unloading the bikes and setting up camp, Will perked up and went it to boy scout mode whilst I think Mike would have preferred a room at the Matlock Hilton! We cooked Chicken Curry and drank a few European Beers whilst trying out all of our camping gear - mint! It was bloody cold and a bit damp, but all went off pretty successfully. We decided that we would try and do the main trip 'unchained' - buying our food from local suppliers rather than chains. We reasoned that this would not only give us a more unique experience, lots of opportunity to interact with the locals, but would be better for us and cheaper.

We also managed to get in to the inevitable discussion about the balance between getting the miles done and experiencing some of where we are. In any overland travel, there is always a tension between making progress on the trip and seeing the sights and culture of the places that you pass through. Normally when I travel with my wife, it's pretty straightforward because we have a similar attention span and always seem to want to move on from a place at the same time. This is certainly not the case amongst the Balticians! Mike has proclaimed himself that he has 'fucked off' some of the wonders of the world to go and find breakfast, whilst Will needs to generally have settled down in the local community, married a local girl and help build a school before feeling like he has 'done' a place. I'm exaggerating a bit, but it illustrates the point. I'm somewhere in the middle on this one I think. Anyway, we resolved nothing and this part of the story is far from over!

I eventually fell asleep on my new folding camping pillow feeling tired but very happy and a tiny bit cold.

Wednesday 14 May 2008

Will's Bike

BMW K1100 LT
Current Mileage 53000
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Modifications and additions
The only modification is the addition of 2 No. bottle carries for 1.5 L of fuel and water fixed to each pannier
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Oh, and fixing the hinges on my pannier so this doesn't happen to my underpants in Russia!
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